Amtrak
4
I've done 4 long distance trips on Amtrak on 5 different trains, and so far the experience has been a relatively good one. The ride was comfortable, exciting, and a great way to see America's back-country. However there are a few things that you need to know before you go. The routes I've traveled on are the:
-Auto Train
-Capitol Limited
-Cardinal
-California Zephyr
-Palmetto (x2)
The Auto Train, The Capitol Limited, and the California Zephyr all use the double-decker Superliners cars. They're fairly easy to identify because they're FREAKING HUGE. These cars as a result seem to be a little top heavy so expect a little more rocking. Both the sleeper cars and the coach cars have seating on both levels.
The Cardinal and the Palmetto use a mix of single level cars. For the coach and dinning cars they use the Amfleet II cars. These can be identified by the fact that they look like beer cans on wheels. They use the boxier Veiwliners for sleepers (on the Cardinal only. Palmetto is not an overnight train). These only show up primarily along the East coast due to height restrictions in the tunnels.
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN CLASSES:
Amtrak offers a whole slew of different class's of services and what you get changes with every train. Here's some info on what I've experienced
Coach:
Generally lowest class available. Even though your ticket says "Reserved" all that means is you get a seat on the train. Where you sit is first come first served. So if you're traveling in a group do what you can to stay together. Some trains like the Palmetto will have seats set aside for people traveling in groups. Ask the attendant or conductor when you get onboard and they'll direct you to where they are.
What you get is a surprisingly spacious seat. I'm over 6 feet tall and there is over a foot of space between me and the seat back in front of me. On the arm rest there are two seat controls. The button reclines the seat, the lever operates the fold out leg rest under your seat. Between the two of these (and if you're short, the fold out foot rest on the seat in front of you) you can recline the seat to almost flat positions. It's not as comfortable as a bed, but it's better then any bus (and some airplanes) I've been on. There is also a reading light for each seat and a fairly effective curtain for each window.
If you're traveling in the Amfleet II cars there is a standard 120volt outlet for every pair of seats, but you'll be hard pressed to find one in the Superliner coaches (if you do find one bring a power strip, you'll be the most popular person in the car). On the Superliners you can request to be put in the coach seats on the lower level when you book your tickets. Amtrak tries to book the upper level first so if you would like a quieter ride go for the lower level. Finally if your traveling in coach on the Auto Train all of your meals are complimentary and you will be offered a pillow at night (at least they did when I took it).
(TIP: I hear there is at least one power outlet in every Superliner Coach. It's located roughly around the center of the car on the second floor. But whether you can get to it depends on which way the seats are facing. Rather then turn the entire car around for the return trip they simply unbolt the seats and flip them. Doing so exposes the outlet they use to plug in the vacuum used to the clean the floors. Remember the Superliners where built around the 1970's and 80's, a time when there wasn't that much demand for personal electronics. However I also hear there some Superliners that are outfitted with outlets for every seat like the Amfleet cars. But so far they only show up on the Empire Builder.)
(UPDATE: I recently had another trip on the Palmetto from DC to Savannah GA and back. Going down the experience was about the same as before. Coming back things were a bit different. It would seem that Amtrak has brought some the older Amfleet I cars back into service (judging by the American Reinvestment Act logo painted on the side) I guess to keep up with the growing ridership demands. The cars have been refurbished and appear identical to the Amfleet II cars from the outside. The difference is on the inside, where the seats are closer together, there is no leg rest (the seats only recline), and the windows are curtain free. You still get a big seat with a reading light and AC power, and it looks like it would be a good way to travel for a 2-3 hour trip. However if you're like me and have to be onboard for 12 hours or more it gets annoying and is a bit of let down (especially since the rest of the train were Amfleet II's). What's more is that Amtrak crews have begun to assign seats as you board (again to deal with the increasing ridership), so they knew they were cramming everyone going to Washington into smaller more cramped car. Hopefully they'll become more strategic with they're consist setup and passenger placement as time goes by.)
Business Class:
A bit of a waste in my opinion. (On the Palmetto) You get a slightly cushier seat, a newspaper, free drinks (juice and coffee), a personal attendant, priority boarding (meaning you get to go first), and you are cafe car adjacent....woo!
Not worth the extra 40 bucks to me, but you do get an all around quieter car and a more pleasurable experience.
First Class Sleepers:
This includes both Roomettes and Full Bedrooms. Definitely the way to go if you plan on going overnight or on a multi-day trip. Whether you go in a Roomette or a Bedroom should be determined by how much you want to spend. Onboard all your meals are included, so feel free to get anything on the menu in the dinning car. There's free juice and coffee in the sleeper car and personal attendant for all sleeper passengers.
At major stops like Washington DC, or Chicago this gives you access to the first class lounge. Only first class passengers are allowed in here so feel free leave your bags with the staff and explore the city (I'll tell you more on this later). Inside the one in DC there are free drinks (juice, soda, coffee), snacks/breakfast items, TV's, and comfortable chairs. There are electronic boards to monitor your train's departure time but they aren't really necessary because when the time comes an attendant will come and take you to your train.
Roomettes:
Not going to lie, these things are tiny! They are not for the claustrophobic. But they do fall under the title of "First Class," so you get all the perks mentioned above. Plus remember you're on a train, so get up walk around and make some friends. Despite their size they will sleep two people. The two seats fold down to form the lower bunk and the upper bunk drops down from the top. There are also AC power outlets, reading lights, fold out table, adjustable air controls, and coat rack/closet. If you must you can call the attendant to your room via the "push to call" button and have your meals delivered to your room.
The amenities differ between Superliners and Veiwliners. In some ways roomettes on a Viewliner are nicer then their Superliner counter part. For one there is a smaller set of windows up above the big picture window. This gives the person on the top bunk something to look at. Viewliner roomettes also seem a little bigger but the reason for this is also one of the drawbacks. That's because they needed room for the fold out sink and toilet. The sink is all right, but do I really need to explain what's wrong with having a throne in such a small space? Hopefully you like the person you're traveling with otherwise I'd do my business in the bathroom in the lounge car. Thankfully they didn't try to cram a shower in here too. There's a communal shower down the hall at the end of the car. On a Superliner there's a full shower and multiple bathrooms on the lower floor and a small bathroom on the upper floor by the stairs. Finally in a Viewliner roomette you are required to keep your luggage in an over head compartment in your room. This wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't such a small space. Superliners you stow your bags on a luggage rack on the lower floor. This might seem like a bad idea but its surprisingly convenient, safer too.
Bedrooms:
Come with everything I said above except bigger and then some. If traveling in a group of four or more ask your attendant when you get onboard if you can "suite" your rooms. They'll remove the wall separating the two rooms and really open up the space. Again the sofa folds down to form the lower bunk and upper bunk drops down from the top. The lower bunk is a little wider then upper. Arguably two people could share the lower bunk. As for sleeping in the upper bunk, sleep with your head towards the door and feet towards the window. With the way these beds are setup the end near the window shakes considerably and will keep you up.
Again the sink with a vanity is nice, but I question the logic of having an in room bathroom. The bathroom doubles as your shower and with how much the train moves using one can be a little challenging. If you do use the shower, use it in short bursts and point it away from the door. The rubber striping around the door will only keep out so much of the water. Also if you make a smell in the toilet you live with the smell in the room. Just like at home, except in a much smaller space. Which is why unless you're going number one I would strongly recommend you use the much roomier communal showers and toilets down the hall.
TIPS, INFO, AND PROBLEMS WITH AMTRAK
Here's what I plan to cover
Consistency
Staff
Bathrooms
Filming and Photography:
Motion Sickness
Meals
Snacks
Timetables and Delays
Tickets
Layovers
Announcements
Smoke Breaks
Baggage
Cell Phones and Internet
Auto Train
Consistency:
Get this out of the way now. This and this alone is Amtrak's biggest problem. Especially when it comes to the staff. At times the people you deal with are beyond amazing, others will make you wonder why they have a job. This seems to be a bit more of problem in the Northeast. Things improve greatly as you move west (I can't comment on the west coast though). The inconsistency of the staff effects everything from how much you like your personal attendant to food service. Tip the ones who do a good job (preferably with money) and don't bother with the ones who don't. This lack of consistency also applies to their rolling stock. There are at least 3 generations of cars currently in use, and the older ones are really starting to show their age. Amtrak has ordered new cars and begun to refurbish old ones. but it'll take a few years to overhaul everything.
Staff:
With everything bad I just said about the staff here's some info that will help you out immensely on a trip. A single coach car can hold a hundred people. Between the people running the dinning car, the sleepers, the coaches, and the engine the total staff equates to maybe TEN!! A number of the staff more or less live with you. On long distance trains like The California Zephyr your personal attendant is with you the entire two day trip from Chicago. That is a long time to spend in a small space with someone you don't like. What I'm saying is take it easy on the staff, they got a lot of people to deal with they don't need your personal issues on top of that. When you get onboard, get to know them so that when a real problem comes up you might find them a whole lot more helpful. When the guy at the snack bar needs a break, HE NEEDS A BREAK, he's the only back there. And again when someone does a good job let them know with a tip.
Bathrooms:
When I got on the Palmetto at the Southern end of the line in Savannah GA, the bathrooms were neat and clean. By the time we got to my stop in DC the same day, they were trashed! This is not Amtrak's fault, it's YOURS. When you use it, clean up after yourself. Make sure your garbage makes it into the trash can. Gentlemen don't be a hero, the train is in motion, you WILL miss the target, FOR GODSAKES JUST SIT DOWN!! This goes for both your communal and in room bathrooms. You could get someone very mad at you in your Viewliner roomette.
(TIP: The trash cans in the bathrooms have a design flaw. The lids are spring-loaded to keep the top shut and the garbage in. The problem is that the springs are a little too strong and if you don't pay attention will spit the trash back out.)
Filming and Photography:
This is the biggest reason I can't say too much bad about Amtrak. That's because some friends of mine and I shot an entire student film on a week long trip onboard an Amtrak train. But don't think for a moment that just because we were able to do it you will too. For one we spent months in advance prepping the equipment and figuring out what we could and couldn't do (both physically and legally). We kept the operation small, 2 actors, 3 crew members, 1 camera, and 1 boom mic. Lastly "we got permission from the conductor," the crew has the final say on everything that goes on onboard.
Even if you're not going for your masters don't assume you can shoot video or take pictures when ever you want. The most common reason you'll ever be told you can't is because you're disturbing the other passengers or disrupting the staffs duties.
WHEN YOU CAN: Sleeping car passengers pretty much have free reign in their rooms (which is where we shot most of the film). Coach passengers can shoot at their seats (preferably out the window). Filming/photography is allowed in the lounge car, it's the OBSERVATION LOUNGE its what its there for. And you can film on the platform at extended stops.
WHEN YOU CAN'T: When someone tells you CAN'T. If your little dip into the film world is making someone else feel uncomfortable or is hindering the staff and they ask you to stop you stop! The place this is most likely to happen are the aisles and the corridors. They're are tight and narrow and already hard enough to get through without you fumbling with a camera. Particularly in the dinning car, the last thing anyone wants is for you to lose your balance and fall all over their food. (even we got yelled at just for carrying our equipment through the dinning car to setup in the lounge). The best time to do a car to car shoot is during the off peak hours when people are going back to their rooms/seats and the dinning car is no longer being actively used.
Motion Sickness:
This is more of an individual problem, but I know I don't get motion sick as easily on a train as I would say a car or bus. My guess the reason for this is while the side to side rocking motion is roughly the same as a car or bus the train's acceleration is much smoother. At the same time if you're on a train for a long time, when you get off you may experience "Stationary Sickness" for a few hours until your body gets use to not moving so much. Either way take some Dramamine with you just in case.
Meals:
The food on Amtrak represents the best and worst of Amtrak. On Superliners and single level trains with Heritage Dinners (Older cars with a boxier design like the Viewliner) The food is on par with any family restaurant thanks to the presence of a full kitchen. The pricing is a little high but I'll get into that a little later. On trains like the Cardinal however the term "microwavable" can be attached to everything on the menu. This is because the Cardinal doesn't have a full dinner car as part of it's consist. Instead what they have is an Amfleet II Cafe Car (snack car) that has been converted into what Amtrak calls a "Dinner Lite Car" in order to save money. The food is about the same quality as airline food or a high end gas station. As the new cars I told about earlier come into service we'll see if this changes. This especially goes for the Capitol Limited which has the new Cross Country Cafe dinning car as part of it's consist. Long story short, it's nice.
Snacks:
Lets face it sometimes three square meals a day isn't enough. Which is why we have a snack car. On Superliners the snack car is located on the lower level of the Observation Lounge (except for the Auto Train). There is a small wet bar on the upper level but that is only activated during the peak seasons. On single level trains it's either the 2nd or 2nd to last car on the train. The selection is pretty good, chips, candy, cold/hot sandwiches, alcohol. But one of the things you'll notice right away is that all of the prices are a tad....high. There are two reasons for this. First and most obvious is that while you're on the train they have a little monopoly and can charge you whatever they want. Second is that in reality THEY DON'T WANT YOU TO BUY THE FOOD. The snack car can, has, and will run out of things and it can happen surprisingly quick. Supplies onboard are limited and they can only restock at major stops. Nothing wrong with bringing your own supplies onboard, its cheaper too. This goes for meals as well. Large stations like Union Station in DC have large food courts with a wide variety of food that can be wrapped up to go and taken onboard with you. Bringing alcohol with you is a little tricky. If your in a sleeper bring a cooler, get a party going, and have fun. Coach passengers not so much, technically you can't bring your own alcohol with you and the alcohol you get from the snack car you can't drink at your seat. If you break this rule the conductor has the right to throw you off the train. But for the most part as long as you are discreet and polite about it, no one really cares. Nobody likes a drunkard.
(Tip: If you brought your own supplies and you like your drinks cold and don't have a cooler, ask the guy in the snack car for a cup of ice. They'll give you one for free but they usually like you to buy something to go with it.)
Timetables and Delays:
With the exceptions of breakdowns and mechanical failures, delays for the most part are not Amtrak's fault. The majority of delays are caused by the freight lines. Amtrak owns very, very little of its own tracks, instead they're more or less forced to rent track space from the freight companies. Supposedly (can't confirm this) the freight lines are supposed to give priority and right of way to passenger trains. However when push comes to shove the freight companies will take the fine from the government rather then delay the on-time delivery of cargo. Delays for track maintenance are also caused by the freight companies. For me so far I've managed to get to my destinations no more then about 15 mins late. In some cases I've even gotten there early.
Trains are as close to an all-weather-go-anywhere form of transportation as you can get. I've seen trains go through massive blizzards and nasty ice storms. It was slow-go but we managed to get where we were going on time. If a train is delayed due to weather chances are it's THAT BAD.
Delays can also be caused by passengers. People fussing with their luggage, people losing track of time in the lounge car and having to race back to their seats, or confusion over where to sit all can hold a train up and force it to run late. Delays at one end of the line can cascade and compound as you move down the route. I'm going to say this as simply as I can, BE READY. If you are within a half hour of when you are suppose to board/disembark don't go anywhere. Meaning that you need to remain in the station's boarding area or at your seat if you're getting off. Trains CAN run early, I've seen it happen. They may remain in the station for a time to get back on schedule but don't count on it. Also if you get onboard and the seat you were told to sit in by the crew is occupied by another person, don't stand there and argue with them and definitely don't stand there with a confused look on your face. Find an open seat, sit down and worry about it after everyone is onboard and the train is moving. Seating is still technically "unassigned," not that big a deal if you have to sit somewhere else.
The brochures they have at the station and online give you a good idea of what the timetable is like. But train schedules change on a daily basis. You really need to go by the time printed on your ticket and what the staff tells you onboard.
Tickets:
You can have your tickets mailed to your home address. But why would you when you could just pick them up at the station. Amtrak's Quiktrak system is great. When you book online you'll receive an email with you ticket number and a bar-code. Print it out. When you get to the station scan the bar-code and the machine will print your tickets for you. If there is a problem with the scanner talk to the staff at the station and they'll print one for you. If the station is unmanned/closed and the machines are down take you print out with you and talk to the conductor as soon as you get onboard. They can print the tickets for you on the train. Chances are you won't be the only one with a problem. Make sure you have ID to verify it's your tickets in question.
Layovers:
Perhaps one of the most hated things about air travel, but one of the greatest things about rail travel. The reason being is that most stations are built at or near the city center. Because you're not bound to the station by security gates you're free to explore and sight-see while you wait for your next train to come in. There seems to be some padding built into the system so you should have plenty of time to do this. Once when changing trains in Chicago (from the Cardinal to the Zephyr) I had enough time to eat at a famous restaurant and see the top of the Sears Tower (now called Willis Tower). With a bit more coordination I could a have met up with a friend of mine who lives in Chicago and hung out while we waited.
Announcements:
Straight up PAY ATTENTION TO THESE. In addition to telling you when the next station stop is going to be and relaying emergency information, the staff will tell you other important things you need to know. Like how at the next stop not all of the doors will open because the platform isn't long enough to support the entire train, so if you want to get off you need to proceed to a certain car. Or that travel between cars will be restricted while the train goes through a six mile tunnel in order to keep the diesel fumes down. Or when the next smoke break is. All of this can and should be heard over the PA system. If it isn't, talk to the staff they've got no reason to hide it from you (this also falls under getting to know the crew, make some friends while you're stuck with each other).
Smoke Breaks:
There is no smoking on Amtrak trains, instead you have smoke breaks. Even if you don't smoke, these are a great way to decompress after spending several hours onboard. They usually occur at stations with extended stops, and crew changes. Smoke breaks tend to occur most often at stations with baggage service. You can tell which stations these are by the "bag" icon that appears next to the station name on the train schedule. But be forewarned just because the train has come to a stop at a station for a long time doesn't mean you can get off and stretch. Don't go through any door that wasn't opened/manned by a staff member, and definitely don't try to open it yourself. Doing so is a huge liability for Amtrak. In DC for example there is often an extended stop. This is so they can switch engines from diesel to an electric locomotive (or the other way around if you're heading South). Needless to say Amtrak probably doesn't want passengers walking around outside when this happens. On one of my trips somebody opened the door at a night stop on the Zephyr and either didn't know how to close it or didn't bother to. As a result the door was left open all through the night. When it was discovered the conductor (understandably) freaked out trying to find out who opened the door and make sure everyone and everything was still onboard. If you do need a break and no official smoke break is coming up soon, talk to the staff they'll let you know when it'll be okay to step out.
Baggage:
I love Amtrak's baggage policy. Each person is allowed two bags measuring up to 28" x 22" x 14." If you measure this out this is roughly the size of your average large suitcase and you're allowed this as your carry-on! In case you're wondering laptop bags and purses don't count toward your 2 piece limit. There's normally a lot of space available in the luggage racks and the attendants will help you with the heavier pieces. So in reality in most cases there's no need to check your bags. If you do end up checking bags you're allowed to bring 3 pieces up to 36" x 36" x 36" in size for 10 bucks a bag regardless of weight (try to keep it under 50lbs). Special items like bikes, ski equipment, and musical instruments usually need to be checked and there is an extra 5 dollar handling fee. You also need to check your bags at least 30min before departure and make sure where you're getting on/off at has baggage service. Smaller stops are usually stop and go, the train isn't in the station long enough to access the baggage car.
When it comes to stowing your carry-ons here's what I suggest. If your traveling on a Superliner (coach or sleeper) leave your largest bags on the luggage racks on the lower level and take a smaller bag packed with the essentials (toiletries, clothes, etc..) to your room or seat. If you can pack this bag inside your larger bag, then it doesn't count as a third carry on. If you forget something in your little bag don't worry you can access the luggage racks at anytime during the trip. Don't leave anything terribly valuable down here though, bags get moved around a lot down here as people get on and off or come down to grab that thing they forgot. Amtrak already advises against bringing valuable things onboard and can't be held liable for damages. If your traveling on a single level train you pretty much keep your bags with you. In coach you can place your bags either in the overhead racks or in the luggage racks located near the back of the car. If you're in a Viewliner (bedroom or roomette) you have large overhead storage bins in your room you can place your bags in. You'll still want the smaller bag, the overhead bins can be a little hard to reach once the train is in motion. No matter what train you're traveling on mark your stuff with luggage tags. Amtrak requires this for all bags, if you don't have one or forgot to put one on you can grab a paper one at the station.
Cell Phones and Internet:
Bring a charger or turn your phone off. one of the things you'll notice right away is how quickly the battery on your mobile device drains away. My phone for example normally can go 4 days without a charge, onboard a train its close to death in less then a day. The reason is that as you move cross country the phone boosts power to the antenna in order to find the next tower to latch onto. At the rate trains travel at it has to keep doing this to maintain the signal. The result being significantly lower battery life.
As for the internet if you have something that can connect wirelessly use it. Although you may experience the same battery draining signal problems as your phone. Amtrak is currently experimenting with free WiFi on the Accela and Coast Starlight, but maintaining the signal strength at 80+ miles an hour through the middle of nowhere is proving difficult.
(UPDATE: Amtrak is expanding WiFi services. WiFi is now available on Amtrak Cascades and will soon be expanded to other trains along the West Coast and the Northeast Corridor. No idea when it will come to the Midwest and the country's interior, little bit harder to get a signal out there.)
Auto Train:
It's the exception to so many rules. I've already told you that coach passengers on the auto train get their meals complimentary with their ticket. It's also the only train that allows smoking onboard. Why? because the Auto Train only makes two stops, one in Virgina and one in Florida. If you do need to light up there's a smokers lounge in the lower level of the observation car. You can also exceed the two piece limit on baggage. You do it by packing your extra bags in your car.
If you do take the Auto Train get there early and don't be in a rush to leave. The auto racks take FOREVER to load and unload. Which can be annoying especially at the southern station which (at least when I went) doesn't have AC, just giant fans. It's central Florida why wouldn't you have AC!?
FINISHING UP
I hope this helps anyone who is going or thinking of using Amtrak. It really can be a enjoyable way to travel but confusing if you don't pay attention. For more info, schedules, and menus check Amtrak's website (amtrak.com).
If you want to get a lay of the land before you go here is a site I found with a 360 degree view of your typical Superliner train.
http://www.360cities.net/image/amtrak-sightseer-lounge-car-southwest-chief-superliner-1-refurbished#166.20,1.80,75.0
(click on the map tab on the left side to explore more of the train)